66: Women of Color in Fashion and Academia with Reka Barton

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

Welcome, everyone. I am here today with a special guest. Today we are joined by Reka Barton, who will be speaking to us about making space for women of color in fashion and in academia. Before we get started on our conversation, I'm gonna go ahead and share her bio with you all.

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

Reka Barton is a third year doctoral student in Education. She is a visual researcher and creative, who examines the educational experiences of Black and brown girls and women through an equity lens. She's also the founder of The Scholarly Sewist, a modern lifestyle brand and social community that centers women of color in academia via fashion. Reka is excited to defend her proposal this summer- that's coming up- and advance to candidacy. So soon- well not too soon. She's also excited about the reemergence of in-person educational conferences. Welcome Reka.

Reka Barton

Thank you so much. So happy to be here.

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

Yeah, I'm excited to have you here. It means a lot. I wanted to maybe get us started by sharing a little bit more about yourself. For my listeners who may not be familiar, if you could tell us more about you, and also how you got into fashion, how you got into building an online community for women of color and just anything else you'd like to share?

Reka Barton

Yes, so I'm originally from Virginia. I went to the University of Virginia where I did my Bachelor's and Master's. I actually did a dual degree program. So in five years, I had a Bachelors of Psychology and a Master's in teaching. Then I taught in elementary school for ten years. I thought I was done with school. Doing both those degrees so young, in an accelerated program, I was like, I'm good. I'm glad I got my Master's, but I think I'm good on school.

Reka Barton

But there are always questions. Like, why did we choose this curriculum? Is this the best for our English language learners? How come I'm the only person who looks like me in this setting, or this field, or this conference? I want to learn more. So I think just naturally being a curious kid, my inquiry didn't stop, even after my Master's program. Then it was just like, I want more answers. I think I need to go back to school. I actually moved to San Diego, and I started teaching the literacy methods course for teacher credential students. I just loved San Diego State, and thought it would be a great place to continue my learning. I applied and got into the program. Now I'm a third year, like you said, and it's crazy. t goes so much faster than you think it's gonna go. While at the same time you're like, are we done yet?

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

That's really interesting that you're sharing about having that question, of always questioning- is this the right way to do things? Is this the right curriculum? I say that because I am currently homeschooling my son, who is seven and just finished first grade. And I feel like that's the common thing among a lot of academics is that, no matter what you do, you always have that questioning, that critical perspective and always wanting to have answers to questions. But I'm curious- if you could share also, how you got into fashion too? Maybe that intersection or the convergence between your interests in education as a whole, and then also your interest in fashion.

Reka Barton

Yes, definitely. My mom actually graduated with a Bachelor's in fashion merchandising. Since I was really young, I've always been around my mom. She used to sew things. She would make herself a skirt and me the matching dress for holidays. My dad and my brother are creatives as well. So just being in a family of creative people. And I learned how to sew probably when I was seven or eight, but never took it too seriously, wasn't patient enough to follow all the rules- just used it to maybe tailor something or make something look different than what other people could buy.

Reka Barton

It wasn't until after college, probably like my fifth or sixth year teaching. It was a really hard year, and so what became my happy place was sewing. I could have the worst day at work, but I came home and I could sew. I think it's so ironic how hard sewing is, for it to be stress relieving. And it's because it's so hard. It takes all of your critical thinking, your problem solving, your math skills, your creativity to sew, that you can't think about what happened during the day. You can't think about what's on your to do list. I think that's what really was my reemergence into sewing.

Reka Barton

Then I started an after school club at work. I taught second through fifth graders how to sew. It was at that point where I realized it was so much more than just making a pillow. I was teaching critical thinking. I was teaching what you do when something doesn't work. And I think it's very unfortunate that sewing isn't really considered STEM or STEAM, because it is science and technology and math and art. It's all of those things.

Reka Barton

So that's when I got back into it. Then last year, the world gave us a pandemic. It was really after- I don't want anyone to think that I was like, woohoo, free time. What do I do? No. Those first five weeks were- what do I make of my life? This is not how I live. Then it was like, what would you do that you haven't done, because you haven't had time? That's when the Scholarly Sewist was created. And the Scholarly Sewist really finally put all my interests together. I knew that I needed a space that was really me, and that was interwoven. Then it was phemme, which is actually my first print.

Reka Barton

I was gonna ask you about it too. I was like, talk to me about this shirt.

Reka Barton

Phemme really is looking at the female intersection of the PhD. Even in these first three years, knowing that a) this is hard enough. But it's harder when you're female. It's harder when you're a woman of color. So how, what word even can- what word can show that? Finally, phemme. I always said I was gonna make up a word. You know, you read these articles. You're like, oh, I've never heard that before. I didn't know my word was gonna be phemme. But it really does speak to this existence of being both a woman and pursuing this PhD. So that was my first print. I created a website. I started selling it, and then realizing that it was resonating with other women. That's when the community started taking off.

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

I'm really glad that you mentioned about the shirt, because you said it's primarily for women, women of color, and to stress how - you said it's the intersection of being a woman and being in a PhD program. But I can also see how it would also be great for feminine presenting individuals, for non binary folks, because you still go through the similar microaggressions in academia, similar struggles. I wanted to ask you, though, a little bit more about the Scholarly Sewist as a whole.

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

I know you have this- you said, it's your- not logo, but it's- I'm blanking on the word.

Reka Barton

Print.

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

It's a print, thank you. You have that print. I checked out your IG, and I know you have the research her- the really cute sweaters too. And I was like oh, I might need one of those. I might need to go to your online shop and get myself one of those. So where do you get these ideas from, and what are your goals? What are your ambitions - the future of the Scholarly Sewist?

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

Because I myself, I started this podcast just for fun, just for the sake of putting the message out there. i was like, there's so much that I'm learning as I'm guiding the students, and I want to put the message out there. But I feel like there's so much more you can do with an online community. That's why I'm curious- for you, you did get this started last year, and I think it's probably grown a lot since then. So initially, what did you think it was gonna be? What is it now, and maybe your goals for the future?

Reka Barton

Initially, I just thought it was a release of my creative self. I think so many of us go into this PhD journey, and you see other people allow the PhD to overtake who they are. And I just knew coming into this program that I still wanted to be me. So when I think- at my core, who am I? What do I believe? It's really the intersection of teaching, traveling and sewing. Thinking of that, the Scholarly Sewist became a place where I can talk about the scholar part of me. I could talk about the sewist part of me, and I could talk about the sightseer part of me. That's how it began. And I thought it would be a blog post here, a picture here, and some people I know in my merchandise. Then very quickly- I call it my first stranger buy, when someone I did not know purchased the first item.

Reka Barton

I was like, they get it. There are people out here that resonate with this idea. And I also want everyone to know that while I center women of color, this community is for everyone. It's for everyone who understands that our plight and our journey is a little different. So be here as a co- conspirator. Be here as a supporter, and also wear the merchandise. This is not to say that men can't be phemme. This is opening up this space for just the acknowledgement and the centering of some people who are usually marginalized along these journeys, and really making a place to center it.

Reka Barton

But research her came- I was actually playing with my mom's embroidery machine, and teaching myself how to embroider using YouTube videos. I kept writing researcher and it was in that moment that the her jumped out at me. And I was like, oh my goodness. Think about how many times we've seen this word. But this idea that you cannot spell researcher without her. That message just resonated with me. That's when the research her collection came about, and that's been the most popular collection. People have told me that they feel empowered wearing their sweatshirt. They're wearing their sweatshirt or their T shirt when they're presenting, or when they're teaching. Just for other people to feel like they have something that outwardly shows who they are and why they do this work, I think, is really important.

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

And the research her is not just research and her, but there's that play on words. It's not just I'm a researcher, and you need the her, or there's a her in it. But also, some folks are researching her. They're researching women, women of color, femme presenting. You know, it's such a great word to use. I really like what you're saying about feeling empowered when wearing something like this, when wearing a sweatshirt or whatever it is that you choose to wear. Just when I was thinking about how we were going to have this conversation, and I was thinking about my own impressions of fashion and clothing, or even thinking about my own students that I serve. For me, growing up- you know, I grew up single parent household- my mom, six kids, low income.

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

Fashion was always to me like this thing that we couldn't afford to buy new clothes. So going and getting secondhand clothes, or I would wear a lot of my brother's clothing when I was a kid. I would always look like a little- they would call me a tomboy, just because I wear a lot of my brother's clothes. Then even going into like undergrad, and being expected to dress professionally, you know, "professionally." That felt very oppressive. Also, it just reminded me of my class status, of like- I can't afford the nice clothes. I feel awkward wearing professional clothes.

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

But what you're saying is actually, there is an empowering message. And I think for me, now that I'm older, and more comfortable in my own skin, it has been true. I no longer tell my students oh, for this event, dress business professional. I say dress in whatever makes you feel your best.

Reka Barton

Yes.

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

I would love for you to just kind of expand more on that, on fashion and clothing as a means of empowerment, because I think that's a really important message for folks to hear, especially if folks are feeling like the way that I felt when I was in undergrad, you know, just not 100% always comfortable in their own skin.

Reka Barton

I do think- especially for those of us who may not have felt- like, do I belong here? Do I fit in? Fashion is a way of expressing- no, I'm here. I've earned my space. I want you to see me. I'm going to resonate and live and take up space here, because I deserve it. I think style is one way to do that. I also think that- what is professional dress? What is business casual, and who gets to make those rules? So really being able to say, I can wear a graphic tee when I defend my dissertation. I can wear jeans when I present at this educational conference, because that doesn't change my expertise. It doesn't change my content. I think there's so much power in being able to say- I made a choice about what I put on, and both my clothing and my words are here to make a statement.

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

Yeah, definitely. I think that that message- one, I'm getting a lot out of thinking about fashion and clothing as a means of empowerment. But then two - kind of go back to what you said earlier, you mentioned that with the pandemic, there's so many horrible things that happened to a lot of us. But then at the same time, a lot of us have pointed out that there have been silver linings. Your silver lining was you were able to make that space to think about the things that- like I said, it's like, what could I not do before because I didn't have maybe the time, the space, the energy for it?

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

I think that has been true for a lot of folks. At least some of the conversations I've been having is that the pandemic has shed light to our priorities. And also, some of the folks that I know that have not only survived but thrived in graduate school or thrive currently in academia are the folks that have hobbies, where their identity is not 100% tied to academia.

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

So I was wondering if you could share a little bit more about that- your hobbies, what else you do. Or even it's summer- you know, summer's officially here. What are some of the things that you're looking forward to in the summer? I know you've got your proposal or prospectus. I always forget. I'm like, people call it a different thing. But I'm sure there are other things too that you're going to be prioritizing this summer. Could you share a little bit more about maybe the hobby aspect and the summer, and just everything else that kind of helps you keep going?

Reka Barton

Yes, I think that's a great point. Your hobbies are what preserve you when some of your nine to five or day job things get taken away. So I found myself- again, I'm from Virginia, so my San Diego squad is really San Diego State University. Being drastically taken from being on campus, being removed from teaching my students in person really changed. What does this look like, when I really do stay in my apartment, my family is 3000 miles away. So it is the hobbies. That's when I rewatched Project Runway, and I would sew.

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

I'm not gonna lie. I like Project Runway too.

Reka Barton

Yup, I love it so much. It was the hobbies that kept me. Now- I mean, I think we can all argue as an academic, especially PhD student, is summer really any different than the school year? Because I'm still teaching classes. I'm still writing, and trying to get this proposal defended. But I am excited about the possibility of opening up travel more - safely, of course. Being mindful that this pandemic is still not over, and there are still many communities and spaces that have work to do.

Reka Barton

But being able to get back to sewing and traveling are some of my goals and intentions for this summer. And also just getting- I just started going back to pilates. Making sure you have a physical space- and not that it means you have to look a certain way to reemerge in the world. But what makes you feel good? Pilates was a really good break from the back to back meetings I have on a daily basis.

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

Yes, I think we all need to find routines and just things that help us take care of ourselves, whether it's our physical health, our mental health, our spiritual health. And some of the things that you do will help with that- whether it's the pilates, whether its the sewing. Even the traveling. I know, I've been kind of keeping track and a lot of countries are starting to open up their borders to travel or to tourism. Just out of curiosity, where are some places you might want to visit? Because it doesn't hurt to just dream and to plan for travel.

Reka Barton

Right. I actually have been a lot of places.

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

Oh, share.

Reka Barton

I'll try- I can't even remember them all at this point. Some of my favorite places are Rome, El Salvador, Cuba. Switzerland was probably my last international trip. I've been to Mexico, Barcelona, London, Costa Rica. I love Puerto Rico. Just to name a few.

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

Wow, where would you want to go if things work out? and Bart is up and up and you're I want to do that

Reka Barton

I am thinking of Mexico, possibly Cabo or something even closer. Being in San Diego, you do have the advantage of being pretty close to Mexico. Also, not really feeling comfortable to be an eight hour flight away right now.

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

Yeah.

Reka Barton

So I think Mexico will probably be my first international trip in this new reemergence into travel. Also looking to see which of the educational conferences this upcoming year are going to return to in person, and what safety procedures they have in place, and seeing if there are any exciting places via conferences to go to.

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

Yeah. You know, before I started doing undergraduate research, travel always felt like such a luxury. It was just something that was just too not attainable. Then I started doing research, started going to academic conferences, and I realized- actually, I could get a travel grant and get pay or get some funding to be able to pay to travel to wherever these conferences are. Those are some of the things that my students are learning now. And I think it's- what's the word? I'm glad to hear that some conferences are starting to make plans for things to kind of reemerge in person. And I know that something that you said earlier too- or at least in your bio, that you're looking forward to things opening up. What are- you said, possibly pilates, possibly traveling?

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

Is there anything else that you're looking forward to in the summer, just for our students to hear, to get some ideas? Because I do want - I know we're talking about fashion. But now that you mentioned the travel, I wish that someone would have told me just how attainable it can be if you budget, if you get funding. Or even, some folks do travel hacking, though I haven't fully kind of figured that out. But there are a lot of ways to do it. So yeah, what are some other things that you're looking forward to now that things are reopening?

Reka Barton

Yes, I think travel, especially as a student, is something that is so much more attainable than a lot of people think. I also think it's part those knowing what's available at your university. Many of my student travel have been because I was presenting at a conference and was able to receive a travel grant. So I would definitely recommend- either at your university. Start at your department, go wider to the university. But also the actual conference. There's a lot of conferences that offer discounts or funding grants for students to attend.

Reka Barton

I think- going back to the beginning of our conversation- not being afraid to take up space. Many people, students, on these budgets- knowing that our universities sometimes are not funding our programs, or aren't funding the extra things. Knowing that it's okay to write an email. I've been accepted to present at this conference. However, my budget doesn't allow me to make this purchase. Is there anything you can do? And I think you'd be surprised how many of these conferences in different organizations do open it up to grad students, knowing that students are the future of these fields and these spaces. So creating a space.

Reka Barton

And I've never been to an educational conference without a roommate. So knowing that it is expensive, and you may have to figure out what is worth it, and how to budget. I'm bringing my own snacks. They always have tea and coffee outside in the hallway. Thinking of how to make it work. But traveling is one of my priorities. So I will not eat out or not go to all the brunches with my friends during the summer, because I know I'm saving up for these travel experiences.

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

I feel like I'm gonna have to have a separate episode on budgeting, because that's something that's coming up right now. But the other thing that you mentioned that I think a lot of folks don't realize- and I certainly didn't when I was in grad school- is that as someone- I self identify as being introverted. I've struggled with- or I used to, before I had my kids. I've got a seven year old and a seven month old. But before, I struggled to advocate for myself. I struggled to be the squeaky wheel.

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

It wasn't until later on that I realized- oh, it was the person that asked. It was the person that sent that email, the person that notified others that got the funding. There are sources of funding, if you are a graduate student, where it's- like you said- through your department, through a different center, through the conference itself. If you are the squeaky wheel, if you are the one that kind of goes out and asks, you never know where you might get some of that funding to be able to travel, if that is a priority, or that is something that you really want to do.

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

One thing that I'm trying to focus more on now- for myself, and for my students, and anybody else who listens to this podcast- is, I think, with the pandemic, there's been so much negativity. There's been huge impacts on people's families, on people's lives. And there's been also an impact on folks and their mental health. I think that we need to prioritize and make more space for joy. You know, one student recently told me, I kind of want to study abroad, but I don't know. Should I do it? And I'm like, what would you regret more- not going or going?If you really want to go, you should do it. Let's figure it out.

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

But I think we're getting closer to wrapping up. I would love to hear from you just anything that might help kind of motivate students. Right now, a lot of them are lacking motivation. They're feeling low morale, and I keep telling them to not just prioritize their research, but to find ways to look forward to whatever the next step is. So if the next step is graduate school, as a Master's or a PhD, to make space for joy. Just from my conversations with other people who are currently graduate students, it sounds like a lot of folks are prioritizing themselves and are making space for joy and are traveling, or doing these things, and not necessarily tying themselves and their identities to academia. So yeah, maybe whatever you might want to share along the lines of motivating and just reminding them. Like yeah, you can go to graduate school and still have a life.

Reka Barton

Yes, I'd say it again for the people at the back. I think there's so much- and we talk about this space of academia that is broadcast to us, that is the traditional space. For a lot of people- I don't have people in my family who have a PhD.

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

Same.

Reka Barton

I'm thinking, it's not like you're turning to your uncle or your grandma asking these questions. We're turning to each other. So I do think finding your people is so important. And I just posted actually today about some of the best guidance and mentorship I found from women who were in my same program, but a few years ahead of me. I can see them working on the ground. I can see them doing the work. I can see them on their tired days, but I can see them as they're accomplishing their goals. And then they can tell me like, hey, now I'm at this step, and this is how it was. Now I've graduated, and this is how it was. Now I'm on the job hunt, and this is how it is.

Reka Barton

So looking for your people. But I also say- you were a whole, full human being before you came to school, whether it be undergrad, graduate, PhD. So please don't lose yourself in this process. If you give this process everything you have, you will change. I am completely more knowledgeable, more reflective, more inspired and more heartbroken as I learn all of the ins and outs of theory and history and marginalized populations, and what that means in policy and funding. Sometimes I'm like, oh my gosh. Why do we do all of this? But other times, I'm like, this is my place. I found the place to make my mark, and knowing that your mark doesn't have to- we're not all going to be the president of AERA, or these national organizations.

Reka Barton

But your work is necessary. And if you know your why, that's what sustains you. I know that I research for Black and brown girls, and their educational experiences. I know that the work that I'm putting into the world is necessary for the communities that I'm serving. And I also know that my purpose is not just my work. My purpose is being a family member. My purpose is being a really good friend. My purpose is finding the things that make me happy, which are sewing and teaching and traveling. So making sure that I always keep that space.

Reka Barton

And you also mentioned mental health. Go to therapy. Therapy is for everyone, whether you are breaking down at the moment or you are in a great season of joy. Therapy is good. Check your student benefits. Check your student employee benefits. Many spaces, especially because mental health has been put on a more prominent space this year. I know a lot of universities are acknowledging that and creating more spaces. Whether it's group therapy- you drop in, check in. But really take care of yourself, because the work is still going to be here when we're long gone, and so making sure that you stay hold, and really show up fully in this world.

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

That's so important. I love what you said about my purpose is not just my work. I love that. And I feel like for you- just having this short conversation with you, I get this impression that you're very clear about your priorities and your values. You seem so self -ssured, and I feel like you're gonna be set. You don't need academia. Academia needs you.

Reka Barton

Exactly.

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

And I hope that that can be true for anybody else that's listening, to just remind themselves- your purpose is not just your work. Figure out what your values are. Figure out what your priorities are, and then center them in what you do, even as you go on to graduate school, or whatever. I say grad school, because it's Grad School Femtoring. But whatever the next step is for you. A lot of my students are graduating right now, so they're all really thinking hard, long and hard, about their next steps. I think that's a really, really great message that you shared with them.

Reka Barton

I think also, for anyone graduating undergrad right now, knowing that you don't have to know right now. I think that is so important, especially with- I've had classmates in my doctoral program who are almost ten years younger than me. And it's like, wait. Should I have done this ten years ago? No, I couldn't have. There's no way I could do what I'm doing right now ten years ago. So everyone has their timing, and your timing doesn't depend on anyone else's timeline. Knowing that it was my ten years in elementary school classrooms that invigorated me with my why. I needed every single- all ten of those years to be able to sustain what I'm doing now. There weren't the lessons in the year one and two that would sustained me through an entire PhD program. So live your life, find your joy, find your why. That will propel you and assure you on the days that this journey is really hard, that you're in the right place, and you're doing what you were put here to do.

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

That's right. We all have our own timelines, and it doesn't have to be from point A to B to C. And at a certain age, you do X, at a certain age you do Y. Also you can be on this journey, and you're allowed to change. You're allowed to change your mind, and you're allowed to change careers.

Reka Barton

And you're allowed to decide it's not for you, and do whatever. I think really leaning into the process. Schooling is a process. It's not just about the piece of paper at the end of it- and knowing that we learn in spaces outside of traditional schooling.

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

And that's a form of education as well.

Reka Barton

Yes.

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

Yes. You know, I've learned so much just post- PhD, and on my own terms, you know, whether it's a podcast, or a book, or an audio book. I've learned, I've gained so much. That's one thing that I hope that my students will always- or just listeners, anybody- take with them, is that you can always learn. You don't have to necessarily have access to the ivory tower, and those resources and the - what is it? The paywall, pay walled sources and articles and all these things.

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

There are ways for you to learn that are just as valid. But yeah, I just want to kind of echo everything that you've said about- it's okay to do things on your own terms, in your own time. Set your own values, and define success for yourself. Yeah. Now that we're kind of going to the end, I actually wanted to ask you- how can others learn more about you, follow you, get in touch with you if they found a lot of what you said resonates with them, and they want to keep hearing from you, support your work, support your shop and all the other things you're doing.

Reka Barton

Yes, definitely join the community over at the Scholarly Sewist on Instagram and Facebook. I'm also on Twitter- not as actively- at Scholarly Sewist. IG is there. You can also go to my website, the ScholarlySewist.com. Please join in, shop, post, comment. Really, in this second year, I'm really opening up more, so being able to start some Instagram live's, to really help answer questions or demystify some of this process.

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

That's awesome. Yeah, I'll make sure to link you when I share the flyer to this podcast episode on my IG. I want to thank you so much for your time, Reka. It means a lot that you just made the space and time for this, for folks to hear you out, to listen to your message, to support your work. Thank you so much.

Reka Barton

Thank you for having me. This is awesome. Let's do it again.

Dra. Yvette Martinez-Vu

Yes.